Dramatic landscapes, tranquil hideaways and a vibrant art scene. The allure of the Big Apple’s glittering skyscrapers is undeniable, but venture upstate and you’ll discover gems that tick every box

By Cheryl Caira

Lead image: Letchworth State Park

TWA Hotel

Embrace a Mad Men aesthetic. If you’re fresh off a tiring flight and keen to recharge pre-road trip, TWA Hotel – the one and only within JFK Airport – is a teleportive experience to the 1960s. A former Trans World Airlines terminal with a futuristic look evoking jetsetting’s golden age, it was restored and reopened with 512 guestrooms in 2019. Must-dos – a cocktail aboard on-site vintage aircraft ‘Connie’, and another by the rooftop pool overlooking planes shooting off the runway.

Book in some aerial sightseeing. With a Grand Canyon-esque feel, owing to its breathtaking river gorge and 600-foot cliffs, Letchworth State Park pips the Arizona landmark to the post for cascading features. There are three major waterfalls and 66 miles of hiking trails, but if soaring aloft the scenery is more your vibe, Balloons Over Letchworth will take you sky-bound from May to October at sunrise and sunset.

Mohonk Mountain House

Explore the weekend escape of savvy New Yorkers. The Hudson Valley’s coolest spot for understated luxury, the town of Rhinebeck has become a magnet for artists, designers and innovative chefs. The independent boutiques feel quirky-cool and the downtown area is easy to wander. Head to Samuel’s Sweet Shop if you like nostalgic candy – it’s co-owned by actor Paul Rudd. Terrapin, in a converted church, is an award-winning farm-to-table spot worth the visit. 

Corning Museum

Admire masterful landscape design. Innisfree Garden in Millbrook uses its tranquil setting on Tyrrel Lake to beautiful effect. Envisioned in the 1920s by Walter and Marion Beck, an artist and gardener, it brought an ancient Chinese scroll painting to life. 40 miles away, find more serenity at Olana State Historic Site – a 250-acre estate and the former home of 19th-century landscape painter Frederic Edwin Church. Take in the Persian-inspired architecture and soak up the tremendous views over the Hudson River.   

Breathe in fresh mountain air. 90 miles north of New York City, Mohonk Mountain House was the state’s original summer resort and retreat for urban dwellers, founded in 1869 by the Smiley family as a 10-room inn. Now it feels like a modern Victorian castle, with a luxurious spa, golf course (remodelled by a Scottish designer in 1911) and sweeping golden hour vista of the Catskill Mountains. Practise your rowing on the resort’s showstopping glacial lake or observe it from above within the 85 miles of private trails.

Olana State Historic Site. Credit: Peter Aaron

See some stunning glass creations. In the Finger Lakes region, Corning Museum has the world’s most comprehensive collection of glass – from some of the earliest exhibits, a 3,500-year-old Egyptian king portrait to Dale Chihuly’s distinctive coloured glass sculptures. Plus, who doesn’t love a good glassblowing demo? Wonders never cease as the masters on stage turn molten glass into a decorative piece of art. The shop offers original souvenirs by more than 200 artists, from paperweights to collector’s pieces.

Vineyard View Winery

Wine taste with a boutique base. A collection of six historic, luxury inns that feels like its own bucolic village, Inns of Aurora is a relaxed spot on the shores of Cayuga Lake – the longest of the 11 Finger Lakes, which sit in a region that’s roughly the size of New Jersey. It’s a great base for exploring the area’s diverse wineries. Vineyard View Winery is a fifth-generation farm overlooking Keuka Lake, with a signature dry Cabernet Franc and  newly launched dry rosé.