Food & Drink
Where to eat and drink in Edinburgh right now
What’s hot in the capital’s food and drink scene
Lead image: Montrose
Out to lunch
An innovator when it landed on the Edinburgh food scene in 2012, Timberyard – in its oh-so-cool warehouse location – was a fresh take on contemporary Scottish cuisine, culminating in a Michelin star in 2023. Following in the same footsteps in ethos, where seasonality and locally sourced produce is paramount, Montrose also arrived in 2023 – so-called because it occupies Montrose House in Abbeyhill, one of the capital’s first public houses.
Though the Radford family-led wine bar and restaurant started out in a similar vein to Timberyard with its menu, offering a set four-courses on the first floor, last year saw the venue embrace a new direction – with choices for diners looking for a more relaxed experience. Depending on their mood, guests can eat from both an a la carte menu or the tasting menu, whether they’re seated in the bar or dining room. There’s also an outdoor terrace for that all-important people-watching (got to grab those balmy days when they’re available).
Served Friday to Sunday, the lunch menu is a real steal at £35 for 3 courses, and a great entry level way to sample what Montrose has to offer. To nibble, there are Scottish oysters with inspired pairings such as apricot and ancho chilli, devourable bread and butter, and titles that intrigue enough to tempt (dishes like Curing Rebels Mangalitza belly and Devils on horseback). Larger plates dive into comfort eats and sustainability, with a ‘root to shoot’ approach. Options could include anything from Duck leg papardelle to Green pea panisse with anchovy and Blackcurrant pavlova. The wine list is an adventure in Europe’s organic producers – Montrose stands out globally as being committed to serving wines without foil or plastic capsules.
Capital dining
The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse has appointed Elliot Hill as its new executive chef. Known for his produce-led approach, Elliot has brought a menu to the all-day dining restaurant that celebrates Scotland’s seasonal larder, with a modern take on classic dishes. New signature dishes include the Spence onion soup with truffled Anster cheese, halibut ‘cullen skink’ with smoked haddock, potato and seaweed and Highland venison with red cabbage, deer stalker pie and hedgerow preserve.
gleneagles.com/townhouse/eat-drink/the-spence
Southside value
Abacus, the newly refurbished bar and restaurant at The Scholar Hotel, has opened in Edinburgh’s Southside, offering an all-day dining experience where seasonal Scottish produce meets Mediterranean influences. Tucked away within Pollock Estate, Abacus is open seven days a week, serving breakfast and an all-day menu from 12 noon until 9.30pm. Breakfast options include Loch Fyne smoked salmon, Scottish porridge with honey and seeds, small plates designed for sharing and more substantial mains such as venison loin with seasonal accompaniments and a plant-forward winter squash, harissa & spinach wellington.
Wild flavour
Òir Group, is launching its fourth new restaurant in the capital in February – Uncle Tiger on Bristo Place. The group already operates The Captain Darling in Stockbridge, Lucky Yu on Broughton Street and Bodega on Leith Walk. Changing its culinary destination every six weeks, Uncle Tiger will run a rotating line-up of night-time sessions, inspired by some of the most exciting food cultures across Asia. Each one focuses on a single destination, bringing together chef-led dishes, inventive cocktails and a soundtrack to match.
Celestial sips
A new Old Town opening in the below-level spot previously occupied by Under the Stairs, Sköll & Hati has arrived on Merchant Street. A concept bar from The Cocktail Geeks team, the menu explores and celebrates norse folklore – with cocktails inspired by the nine realms of the norse cosmos, wines, nordic whiskies, ales and charcuterie boards.
