Kingdom Scotland founder Imogen Russon-Taylor talks go-to ingredients, emotive scents and a life in fragrance

What led you to founding Scotland’s first fragrance house?

I worked in the aromatic world of whisky for nearly two decades. Whisky and perfume are so intertwined with the selection of the finest ingredients, distillation, and the beautiful reveal of a fine spirit. I have always been fascinated by sense of smelI, so I translated my experiences in whisky into Kingdom Scotland. 

Has your taste in fragrance changed?

I think all of our tastes in fragrance evolve. I loved gourmand scents when I was much younger, and Thierry Mugler’s Angel was a favourite. This was a pioneering scent with notes of pineapple, berries, vanilla, chocolate and tonka bean. My tastes have changed to less sweet scents, but I love exotic and delicate florals too.

What scent evokes the most memories for you?

Kingdom Scotland’s Portal perfume. The idea for this came to me years ago whilst working in London. The thought of walking in a Scottish forest in springtime was often something I would think of when I was stressed and working too hard. Portal feels like an escape to a sylvan wonderland with its freshness, wildflower sweetness and woody base.

How would you suggest someone finds a scent that brings them joy?

Scent is so closely connected to memory and emotion, so I would take some time to think of your happiest memories, then think of what smells evoke these memories. It could be more gourmand notes from a memory of cooking with a loved one, such as vanilla or coconut, or it could be a walk in nature, so herbaceous and verdant notes.

Describe your personality in perfume.

I have put so much of myself into Kingdom Scotland: a love of landscape, Scotland, nature and storytelling. My perfumes are complex, poetic, long-lasting, and multifaceted – so one could translate that as resilient with eclectic taste! 

What perfume do you first remember buying?

I remember sneaking sprays of my mum’s and grandma’s perfumes as a child. Mum loved L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, and Estée Lauder’s White Linen. Grandma wore Estée Lauder’s Cinnabar, Guerlain’s Samsara, Lancôme’s Magie Noire and Dior’s Poison. Their different personalities defined in their perfumes! The first niche perfume I bought was Portrait of a Lady by Dominique Ropion for Frédéric Malle – a rich, modern classic.

The azalea lawn at the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh

How did you create your scent with Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh?

I was delighted when the Botanics approached me to create Kingdom Botanica to celebrate their 350th anniversary. I worked with the archivists, botanists, horticulturalists and scientists at the gardens, and every ingredient in the perfume tells a story of the special work there. Profits from the scent go towards RBGE biodiversity research in the face of climate change.

What floral scent are you most enchanted by?

I have always loved vetiver – such a grounding and calming ingredient. It provides a deep, earthy and woody aspect and some samples have undertones of leather and slight smoke. I also adore Tuberose. The intensely floral scent is quite exuberant and can be described as sensual and voluptuous. 

What qualities do you think define a good unisex scent?

The concept of scents for women and scents for men came about mid last century as a marketing approach. This is a modern phenomenon when you think the Edwardian gentleman, for example, would have often worn a rose scent, and the Georgian aristocracy would have been doused in civet. It is liberating to think of all scents as gender neutral. I like to think that you choose the scent that is right for you, regardless of whether it is deemed male or female.

What is inspiring you creatively at the moment?

I am fascinated by a sense of texture in scent, whether that’s perceived as creaminess, warmth or an exhilarating sense of lightness that is uplifting. I am working on a new perfume to be launched later this year. 

Stunning scents

These three fragrances propelled my appreciation of the world of perfumery:

L’Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake (1992) – a fresh oceanic floral. The scent gives a sense of escape and was unlike anything I had smelt before. The bottle was so elegant, tall and unusual with a silver metal ball as the opening.

Narciso Rodriguez for Her (2003) – This was the first musk fragrance that was skin-like. I remember how intoxicating it was the first time I smelt it. I now know it was created by the perfumer Francis Kurkdjian who went on to create the famous Baccarat Rouge 540 scent.

Diptyque Philosykos (1996) – a wonderful green fig, white woody scent. I loved this fragrance when I smelt it on a fashionable friend who was a talent agent. It introduced me to the Parisian Diptyque brand and the world of niche perfumery.