40 years in, an evening at this world-renowned bolthole is still something special

By Cheryl Caira

En route to the northwest of Skye from the colour-speckled shoreline of its capital, Portree, the landscape shifts. Still with otherworldly features, but with a sweeping ruggedness spanning seascapes and crofts. The flat-topped MacLeod’s Tables survey it all, so-called – according to 16th-century legend – because the MacLeod clan chief invited James V King of Scots to a banquet atop Healabhal Mhòr, the larger of the MacLeod hills.

Back to the present day, and we’re hoping for an experience fit for a chieftain at the much-lauded Three Chimneys. Just before we reach the former stone croft housing the restaurant, we spot a bird of prey – my friend, a resident on the island, insists that it’s a white-tailed eagle. It’s a majestic start.

The restaurant and rooms sit on the shores of Loch Dunvegan, which stretches out to the Minch then on to the Outer Hebrides. Before we nip across to dinner from the rooms in the House Over-By, we’re greeted by February’s ‘snow moon’, chalky and breathtaking in the chilly night. The sunrise is no less of a draw. Crunching through the frosty grass, myself and a few other guests have the same idea: follow the pinky-orange rays as they ripple across the water – the perfect prelude to breakfast.

Suite dreams

If you really want to soak up the ambience at The Three Chimneys, try one of the six light and charming suites in the building next door. There’s every cosy mod con you might need – including throws made of Skye wool, soft, signature bedding and plenty of tea, coffee and shortbread.

Snug spots

On arrival, find a prime lookout position in the lounge next to reception, with paintings from local artist Diana Mackie and binoculars provided for nature spotting. We drank a glass of sparkling Blanc de Blancs and watched a heron perched against the sunset.

New head chef

Paul Green, previously at Cornwall’s Driftwood Hotel and Torridon Hotel in the Highlands, has come full circle with his recent appointment at the helm of the kitchen. Twenty years ago, he worked at The Three Chimneys as a young commis chef. His aim two decades on is to keep amazing seafood and locally foraged produce a headline feature.

Laid-back fine dining

The restaurant ambience feels unpretentious but special, with a choice of five or seven courses showcasing mostly wares of the sea (on my visit anyway). I could have gorged on the pillow-like garlic, onion and oregano rolls with salted butter, but that wouldn’t have left enough room for the cayenne kick of the crab dish or the melt-in-your-mouth scallops. Go for the complementary wine pairings for the joy of discovery, or partake in a whisky cocktail made with local malts. 

The Three Chimneys is part of The Wee Hotel Company. Rooms at the House Over-By start from £400 per night with breakfast