Francesco Ascrizzi, head chef at Sotto in Edinburgh, on Calabrian influences, perfect Stockbridge afternoons and the secret to good pasta

Photography by Tina Leahy

Calabrian cuisine is renowned for its bold flavours and often fiery dishes. How has that hometown influence shaped the menu at Sotto?

I like to bring the flavours and ingredients of Calabria to our menu and combine them with Scottish ingredients. This could be anything from Calabrian ‘nduja with mussels, or cured bass with sweet red Tropea onions. We also make a Calabrian margarita, which mixes tequila with bergamot liqueur, lime and spicy Calabrian chillies. 

What is most exciting about Edinburgh’s food scene at the moment?

New openings are moving away from fine dining and tasting menus and towards more classic à la carte dining. This can make eating out more accessible, and there’s lots of new energy in the city. I’m looking forward to trying The Cooper’s Rest when it opens – the new pub from The Palmerston and Newbarns Brewery.

Francesco Ascrizzi, head chef at Sotto in Edinburgh

Which Scottish ingredients are you keen to cook with over the summer months?

Definitely seafood. Pasta and Scottish seafood go brilliantly together, particularly in the summer – we recently had a carbonara di mare on the menu that proved very popular, and a spaghetti ai gamberi with shellfish bisque, courgettes, pangrattato and plenty of lemon zest.  

What’s the secret to making the perfect pasta?

If you’re making it from scratch, use the best ingredients you can get your hands on. Golden yolks and quality flour will make all the difference. 

Sotto’s wine list showcases over 200 bottles across every region of Italy. How closely do food and wine work together when you’re developing dishes?

There’s real synergy between our menu and wine list. We match a lot of our bar snacks with Franciacorta – anything made in the champagne method goes so well with our farinata di ceci (chickpea pancakes) or olives all’ascolana (stuffed olives). We also have a daily Coravin at cost pour, which is paired with the dishes on our set lunch menu.

Calabrian margarita

Stockbridge is a go-to Edinburgh neighbourhood for hidden gems and independent businesses. What’s the best way to spend the afternoon there?

Start with a walk around Inverleith Park with a coffee from Artisan Roast, and if it’s a Sunday, wander through Stockbridge Market and pick up some food to take home. Finish with a pint at The Bailie, and of course some aperitivo and snacks at Sotto.

If you could relive one meal from your life, what would it be?

My favourite restaurant in Italy is called Nonna Aurora, which is a small trattoria in the heart of Bologna. I’d relieve any of my meals there with family.