Previously Barley Bree, Coorie Inn in Muthill has been in the hands of a new team since July last year. It’s cosy and inviting with a distinctly Scottish feel to the interiors, with a nod to angling. As well as the restaurant, there is a lovely bar area with a roaring fire and cosy seating – the definition of snug. Although we were tempted to have a seat there, we headed to the main restaurant at midday, where two very elegantly dressed ladies were already drinking Chablis and perusing the menu. Within an hour, the restaurant was buzzing with enthusiastic diners.

Cosy corners at Coorie Inn

The service that greeted us was friendly and warm, and after having a good look at the menu – and although we quite fancied the fresh soup of the day – we opted for a main and dessert. However, we couldn’t resist a portion of sourdough and butter to get us started. The bread comes from local Crieff Bakery, Damsel and it was an absolute treat. The Coorie Inn make a point of sourcing as much as they can locally and in season, plus they also churn their own butter in-house, to deliciously creamy effect. I would go as far as to say it’s the best butter I’ve tasted this side of Orkney – and the only reason I never asked for a takeaway portion was the ‘don’t you dare’ side-eye given to me by the hubby.  

The mains arrived. I had the monkfish cheek scampi which came with homemade chips and seasonal ‘slaw – the scampi was flavourful and perfectly cooked, with its crisp panko-style coating, and the slaw intriguingly moreish. I sneaked some of the beef, haggis and whisky sausages from my partner’s plate, which were accompanied by crushed potatoes and kale in a vibrant red wine jus. The bangers were magnificent – well-cooked, with the jus giving a real punch of flavour. The worry was that the haggis might overwhelm the beef, but the balance worked perfectly.

Culinary finesse shown throughout the menu

Dessert for me was a beautiful rhubarb crumble with vanilla rice pudding. Who didn’t love a (well-made) school dinner-type pud back in the day? The plate looked so gorgeously presented on arrival that I was loath to put the spoon in. It was divine, and the little touch of basil was the ideal finisher. I did also slide my spoon into my dining companion’s sticky toffee pudding – again, a mini work of art and tasty to boot.  

We spoke to owner and former Gleneagles chef Phillip Skinazi after our meal – his passion for getting the experience right was so apparent. They have a regular following already, with one couple driving down every week for Sunday dinner all the way from Glencoe! Next time we might make it an overnight stay, so we can sample a malt by the fire and truly get cooried in.